Unfair working conditions behind Black Friday

People in Uppsala are willingly shopping during Black Friday, but lack information concerning the working conditions behind the goods. Customers in the clothing stores at the main shopping street would gladly spend a few extra Swedish crowns if that would ensure raised wages and improved conditions for the garment workers.

TEXT LILLY STEFANSSON, ANNA ELLSTRÖM, EMELIE HÖGBERG

In 2017, the Swedes were shopping for 5 billions Swedish crowns (SEK) during Black Friday. One third of the Swedes spent an average of 2290 SEK each on different products, according to PostNord’s survey. This year new sales records are predicted. The business trade organisation Svensk Handel estimates an increase of 18 to 25 percent, and that every other Swede will bargain-hunt goods for a total of 6,3 to 6,6 billions. This day has now turned into the second most important sales opportunity of the year.
The customers in Uppsala are pouring in and out of the clothing stores. Many of them see Black Friday as a good opportunity to find some bargains. One is CG, on her way out from Lindex.

- I´ve bought stuff I had planned to buy anyway. Now I got it cheaper.

KN is less fond of Black Friday.

- This day supports consumption. The problem, actually, is that every day is a shopping day here.

The Western world’s consumption has for a long time affected the planet’s environment, human well-being and quality of life. In 2015, the UN decided on 17 global goals to eradicate poverty and hunger, as well as to stop climate change by the year 2030. Goal number twelve is about achieving a sustainable consumption and production. It is a matter of the public gaining increased knowledge about sustainable lifestyles, but also of completely eliminating ”market disruptions” that encourage wasteful consumption patterns.

MM who we meet outside KappAhl believes that one of the reasons for today’s untenable shopping is the low prices.

- Actually, it would be better if the clothes were more expensive. Then I would be forced to consume less, since I no longer could afford shopping.

One of the backsides of the Western world’s consumption is the poor working conditions for the workers in the production. The days are often long and the wages below the subsistence level. This applies not least to those who manufacture our clothes.
According to the nonprofit organisation Fair Action, there are three main problems for the employees in the clothing industry, mostly women, in the countries where labour force is the cheapest: wages, working hours and safety. Despite working days of 10-12 hours or more, workers have a hard time getting the salary to meet their basic needs. In addition, the garment factories are often badly constructed with insufficient fire prevention.

In a recently published study, Fair Action interviewed eight garment workers employed by suppliers to KappAhl, Lindex and MQ in Bangladesh. Their average monthly income was around 760 SEK, a level implicating violation both against the companies own policies and international conventions for human rights. 760 SEK is less than half of what the workers would need to afford food, health care and accommodation. Overtime work due to low wages also limits the worker’s possibility to improve their situation, for example through union work.

Despite bad working conditions, purchases from the clothing companies involved keeps increasing each year.
One shopper, who just visited the newly opened H&M store on the shopping street, does not know much about the working conditions for the garment workers.

- The information is not easily accessible, but you can probably get it if you are dedicated to the problem. And I´m probably quite lazy, she says, and reflects on the fact that the production takes place in the hidden.
- If there were legal requirements for stores and chains to clearly inform who does the job, I think people would react more. Now, nobody knows if there are children or poor who work for nothing.

KN outside Lindex belongs to those who know that the conditions in the clothing industry are not good. For that reason she is trying to reduce her own purchases.

- A month ago, I decided to stop shopping clothes until New Year, and instead use what I have.

However, KN feels that it is difficult to influence the situation. But she is willing to pay more to guarantee better conditions in the factories. She would also like to see a label regarding working conditions for clothes.

In the report on garment workers in Bangladesh, Fair Action emphasizes the importance of the fashion industry sharing the costs of increased wages. They refer to an estimate made by the Fair Wear Foundation, which shows that it would not mean much higher costs for shopping Swedes.

- One percent extra on a t-shirt would be enough to raise the garment workers’ wages to a level they can live on, says Maria Sjödin at Fair Action.

When asked about their willingness to pay more for clothing to meet the needs of the workers, the Black Friday shoppers in Uppsala were unanimous:
- Yes, I would definitely do that. You know that it is bad for the workers, but not how to affect the process, one customer concludes.